Outback Challenge 2008
Outback Challenge 2008
The OBC was a great event, very unfortunately we had to retire after 4days of competition. During a high speed 15km run down station tracks we screwed the key way off the crank. That left us without engine cooling and alternator power.
Up to that time we were at the pointy end, having won a couple of stages, a few seconds and up there for most of the other stages.
As you can see from the attached we were flying !
In this particular stage (pictured) we won against all the V8's"not bad for an old oilburner"
The Krawler tyres performed well in the sand and after 2 hours of racing over the Darling River muddy flood plains we came in 2nd by only 20 seconds for top position.
Unfortunately following the event we have now pulled the diesel motor down only to discover that both the crank and the heads are cracked...bugger!
Spain back to the UK
Thursday 27th March 2008: The road from the camp ground followed the beach past the Flamingos feeding ponds and the salt extraction ponds, eventually along the side of a cliff and up to a lighthouse. The sky was blue today and the view up the rocky coastline magnificent. From here on the road was closed and the locals were setting off with back packs exploring the 'isolated' bays and foreshores.
Back on the freeway we join the hundreds of trucks and the flow of vehicles north. I estimate that there are just as many heavy semi's on the road as there are private motor vehicles. About 60kms south of Valencia we exit to the small town of Gandia, and find a camp ground. We walk to the beach through the holiday resort area, but can not find a restaurant. We walked and walked, now at 8pm we managed a beer at a tapas bar, but no food. Hence we resorted to finding a supermarket and purchased BBQ pork ribs that tasted great with a bottle of wine in the truck.
Camp 21: Couldn't find a Restaurant Camp.
Distance travelled: 426Kms. Total: 7981Kms.
Friday, Saturday 28-29th March: A couple of days on and off the highways. Most remembered was an old Roman viaduct beside the road and the seaside resorts around Carnet Plage. The beaches are quite now but by the number of car parks provided and the numerous town houses, in summer it must be very busy.
Following smaller roads to our destination of Anduze, where we caught up with Chris Scott. Chris has a great deal of knowledge of the North African continent, and should things be politically OK in Algeria we expect to join him in November for a 4 week tour of that country.
Camp was at a quaint private park on the side of a hill, very picturesque and quiet.
Camp 23: Anduze Camp. Distance travelled in 2 days: 894Kms. Total: 8875Kms.
Saturday 30th March: We were due at Chris's at 9am but daylight saying caught us out so we were a slightly late 10.15 for that first coffee. Following more Africa discussions in preparation for our 2010 Morocco to Cape Town trip we left around midday.
Taking the smaller twisting roads through the Cervantes Mountains we eventually met the A7 north again. Some of those smaller roads in the Cervantes hair pinned so much that many times I had to reverse to get the vehicle around. Lyn was pleased to reach the main road and call a coffee break.
We should know by now that freeway fast food stops never offer good food. Nobody ever complains they just drive away. French highway food shops are no different. We set camp in the car park of such a roadside stop.
Camp 24: Highway A7 Camp. Distance travelled: 232Kms. Total: 9108Kms.
Monday 31st March: The nights are getting colder as we head north, and last night was no different. Leaving the main road we selected smaller roads up to the d'Auvergne Mountains. This is part of the central French snow fields, and as we assended up the mountains the snow cover increased. Finally, and quite magical, for us it began to snow.
It covered the fur trees like a Christmas tree, and on the ground it was up to half a metre deep. Lunched in a small village surrounded by snow.
Returning off the mountain range, we camped by a small lake enjoying our French Champagne, cheese and salmon.
Camp 25: Champagne Camp. Distance travelled: 195Kms. Total: 9303Kms.
Tuesday 1st April: We had by telephone previously booked to travel by the ferry back to Pool in the UK tonight so it was a full day covering the 700 kilometres.
Most of this we travelled on the toll ways and our credit card was accepted. However at one booth the Mastercard and the Visa would not work. I only had €10, and that was our coffee money, the toll was €20.40. In the end she accepted the €10; either that or we would continue to block the toll booth indefinitely. The cards both worked after that, so I am convinced that some places are just not set up for international credit cards.
Following the above experience we elected to follow the final few kilometres via lesser roads and that took us along the Normandy Coast where the Americans landed in partnership with the Brits further north at Dunkirk in the 'D-Day' landing on the 6th June 1944.
The overnight ferry puts us back on left side of the road in the UK. Today, following the cloths washing at a laundrette in Pool is a truck clean at Devon 4x4 and tomorrow (Wednesday 3rd) we return home to Brisbane.
The vehicle will remain again here in the UK for our return in July/August to explore Ireland and the west of Scotland.
Distance Travelled: 700Kms. Total for trip:10003Kms
Max temp 36.6C Min minus 3C
Marrakesh back to Spain
Tuesday 20th March 2008: Last night it was a cold minus 3 degrees, and we woke to snow on the vehicle.
The cloud cover lifted to reveal snow covered peaks surrounding us. We are actually above the clouds in clear air. Walking up the road further we are surrounded by locals all very keen to hire us ski equipment. We are quite happy to walk further up the road and enjoy the mountains.
Returning back past the ski lift, the highest in Africa, it is now working, and foolishly Lyn suggests may be we should go to the top. Well it was a dozen or more yes/no's before she confirmed a yes. We were already at 2,650metres and the top is at 3250metres. It was half way up before she managed to open her eyes and 'enjoy' the impressive surroundings. It was very cold, and we were pleased we were in our NZ heavy jackets, gloves and beanies. I could not persuade Lyn to alight at the top, but was happy to have done the loop, being above the clouds with the backdrop of snow peaks and blue sky was great.
Marrakech is one busy and diverse city. Modern hotels and new condominiums contrasted with donkey carts in the streets. We had been given the location of a campground and after settling in caught a taxi to the centre of town in readiness for the night markets. Crowded shoulder to shoulder, apparently it was Mohammed's birthday so that added to the excitement. Story tellers, snake charmers, group games, dancers, all intermingled with nut sellers, food stands, fortune tellers, and balloon sellers. The crowd was made up of a cross section of locals and foreigners from every continent. It was a bit much for us 'open country lovers' being hassled from every direction to buy, to donate, to give to participate etc. We escaped to an upstairs restaurant for dinner, and thought a beer would be nice with dinner, that was not to be. Being a Muslim country most places do not sell alcohol some do, this one belonged to the negative.
Returning to the camp site by the same taxi guy, we arranged with him a city tour tomorrow for 40Dh each, it will save driving the truck around the small unknown streets.
Camp 15: Marrakech Camp. Distance travelled: 91Kms. Total: 5887Kms.
Tuesday 21st March: The taxi was picking us up at 10am so had some time to grease the truck and some general maintenance. Also noticed a MAN 4x4 camper in the grounds so went over and had a chat to the Spanish guy who builds them. Impressive rig but very big. 4 rooms, 500litres water, 600Lts fuel, all up weight 9.5tonne. He has just returned from Mali and was telling me he had to winch down trees on the tracks to get through!
The taxi bus took us and others to the grand palace (20 years to build, 15 years to rape of its treasurers), the Tombs of Soodiam, and some beautiful gardens built by a French artist.
Returning to the campground, I was annoyed that the taxi driver ripped us off with the price. He insisted he was quoting Euro not Dirham. Anyway the price dropped from 450Dh to a final 300Dh, but I was still felt taken. I have learnt that the Moroccans offer a hand of friendship with the right hand and the other is already out asking for money!
We elected to stay the extra night and relax for the afternoon.
Camp 16: Marrakech Camp No2. Distance travelled: 0Kms. Total: 5887Kms.
Tuesday 22nd March: With our taxi driver situation yesterday, we had just enough money to pay for the camping and left for the supermarket with 6Dh in our pocket, about A$0.90. Fortunately ATM's are plentiful so we feel fulfilled and with some resupply we are off to the Cascades D'Ouzoud.
Detouring to just outside Demnate we stopped to walk down to a natural bridge, then drove another 8Kms to inspect some Dinosaur footprints. As we pull up to the site about 30 children run to the truck wanting to guide us to the very obvious footprints. It was such a hassle continually telling them we do not need their help that it made it very unpleasant. Taking one quick photograph we left. Truly the young have been spoilt by the French and Spanish by paying them for everything. You ask directions, and immediately they want 5Dh, often on dirt roads they stand in front of the truck picking stones off the road and then ask for money, girls in the street pick flowers and offer them to you, then ask for money. It not money it is bom boms (lollies), stylos (biros) or cigarettes.
Camped at the falls, it was my turn to haggle for the camp fees, down from 50Dh to 30Dh. I feel better now that I have had a small win!
The falls are beautiful and worth the trip down and up the 500 or so steps. They fall over 110metres in three steps. At the bottom the small steel bridge linking the two sides of the stream has broken, and the inventive locals have strapped some 44gallon drums together, added a platform, and chairs with lots of plastic flowers and instant money machine.
All down the walking path are stalls and restaurants selling tajins, tea, coffee and crapes. This place is very popular with Moroccans and well as tourists.
Camp 17: Falls Camp. Distance travelled: 235Kms. Total: 6123Kms.
Tuesday 23rd March: Today we head towards the coast of the Atlantic Ocean at Safi. Following the gorge road down the mountains the scenery reminds us of Australia; red rock strata sediments in green eucalyptus trees everywhere. I find it surprising how many eucalyptus and wattle trees are scattered across Morocco. The eucalyptus do get a hard time, constantly being cut for their wood, then resprouting.
In Safi, the old Portuguese fort of Qasr Al-Bahr dates back to the 17th century and was a trading port for both the east Indies spices and the slaves of Africa bound for Portugal. Still in place are some of the original cannons. The 'Castle of the Sea' overlooks the small fishing port famous for its sardine fleet and the walled medina (living area).
Finding the camping grounds we walked the 5Kms back into town and had a meal of local fish; probably on of our best meals in Morocco. Too heavy to walk back up the hill it was a cheap 20Dh in the local 'petit taxi'.
Camp 18: Safi Camp. Distance travelled: 305Kms. Total: 6429Kms.
Tuesday 24th March: Heading north from Safi we follow the Atlantic coast and call in at a beach where the waves are so perfect it is the site for the Billabong Surf classic.
The rugged limestone cliffed coast is broken by sandy beaches that are becoming populated with continuous lines of condos. At the town of El-Jadida we explore the twisted and narrow streets of the old Portuguese walled city. On the ramparts of the fortress walls that guard the city and the port are more canons that have the date 1272 on stamped on them.
Heading further north we jumped on the motorway, bypassed the 4.7million people of Casablanca, and headed for Rabat and its sister city across the river of Sale. Eventually we found the camp site in Sale. Most of these Moroccan camp sites are pretty disgusting; this one typical, no hot water in the showers, some showers without doors, and the toilets, well there is only one and hold your breath!
We caught a 'grand taxi' back to Rabat and wandered the markets within the Medina. We found our way to the oldest part of the city. Again, we were approached by a young man who insisted on showing us around. Constantly I said to him, "I do not want a guide" His reply: "No, free, I friend and live here, will show you around." I know this is not the case.
Eventually we walk another way; he follows us and asked for 40Dh. My reply was a firm "No", which bought the response ""something"Rubbish." It does not leave me with a good impression of Morocco people and their attitude to tourists.
We were going to have dinner locally, but returned to the camper and cooked some spicy sausages.
Camp 19: Sale Camp. Distance travelled: 352Kms. Total: 6881Kms.
Tuesday 25th March: Following the coast this morning instead of the highway afforded us great views of the rugged coastline. We are heading to the National park Merdja Zerga to see the flamingos if they are there and to lunch at the seaside. Lyn's navigation got us there but on the wrong side of the lake, but that is Ok because probably we were not hungry at 2pm. Anyway there were no flamingos, but our seafood lunch was very nice. Not a touch on our Ozzie seafood but after 3 weeks of tajines it was most welcome.
From the restaurant we could see the blue rolling surf of the Atlantic Ocean as it washed up on the wide sandy beach; with the gum trees lining the road in it was reminiscent of home.
It was getting late in the day so decided to jump on the highway to Tangier. Lyn has a real problem with maps and we were only lost for an hour in the gnarly traffic of that town. Then all of a sudden, when we least expected it there was the camping sign. We doubted ourselves because the direction lead us across some very muddy ground, then up hairpin bends on very disused concrete, then only to arrive at a locked gate. Yes, it had the correct name of the campground, but little room to turn around. Lyn's navigation day was saved as all of a sudden the gates opened and we were ushered in. We had found the disused back door to the camp ground.
The caretaker welcomed us, and in our discussions suggested that perhaps we should leave by the same way so we would not get lost finding the front gate. Did he know something I did not!
Camp 19: Tangier Back Door Camp.
Distance travelled: 314Kms. Total: 7095Kms.
Tuesday 26th March: With an early start of 7am we were off the Ceuta and our ferry crossing back to Spain. Arriving at the customs border of the Spanish province at 9am , it was a good two hours doing the necessary paperwork out of Morocco and in to Ceuta. Actually only about 15 minutes of paperwork the rest of the time was inching forward in the vehicle, and resisting running over others who tried to push in.
The vehicle carrying catamaran carries 945 passengers and a significant number of vehicles. As I was about to drive off the ferry after the one hour trip I noticed with some pride that this vessel was built in Western Australia.
The afternoon covered a good distance past all those Spanish condominiums again, and camped at 'Capode Gata' National Park camp grounds. Expensive at €25 (A$40) after Morocco, but the showers are clean, hot and the water lasts forever.
Camp 20: Long Hot Showers Camp.
Distance travelled: 460Kms. Total: 7555Kms.
Morocco Part 3
Tuesday 17th March 2008: The morning was spent wandering the Benhaddou Kasbar, impressive, but they start to look all very similar. This one very much reconstructed as it has been used in many movie sets. The local town of Ouarzazate is home to many movie studios and the Alas studios offers ours so that was our next stop after catching up on internet etc.
The Atlas studios was where 'Gladiator', 'Jewel of the Nile', 'Mummy 1 & 2', and 'Ten Commandments' were made. We walked around the sets that were constructed for these films; reconstructions of Egypt, slave markets, and the town of Jerusalem. The latter took one year to construct and was used for 45 minutes in the movie. Behind the impressive facades were just plaster-of-paris and bamboo frames.
Camp that evening was typical of my camps; up a track to the top of a ridge some 8kms from the road. The valleys spread before us. We set camp and walked around discovering some old mines and the remains of smelter works. On checking the maps we discover these are old silver mines.
Camp 12: Old Silver Mine Camp. Distance travelled: 79Kms. Total: 5371Kms
Tuesday 18th March: This was a great day of travelling mountain pistes and tizis; tracks and mountain passes.
Initially it was not to be but the sealed road headed south them arched north again"why not take the dotted line that joins the two. It started firstly as a bitumen road and slowly deteriorated down to a mountain goat track. We amazed ourselves in the navigation through the many turn offs that headed into mountain villages and goat shelters.
The track was rough in places roughly hewn out of the bare mountain side with many a near vertical drop off to the side. It wound its way over the Tizi at 2,4000metres, with snow not so far off to the side. Fortunately the only vehicles we met were a Dutch push bike rider, then two French 4x4 vehicles. Apart from the pleasant exchange it was good to confirm our directions were correct; and we met where we could pass without difficulty.
The track was 140Kms long and took 5hours.
Following lunch in the very dusty and wind swept town of Aoulouz it was then on to Morocco's most spectacular and dangerous road; well at least according to 'Lonely Planet'"the road over Tizi n Test.
This sealed road snaked itself up a near vertical mountain side. In 17Kms we rose 1.4Kms to 2,100metres. Many times as we quickly glance over the side of the road we can see our road numerous times zigzag back and forth below us.
I thoroughly enjoyed the road, unfortunately Lyn finished up with a headache constantly worrying about oncoming vehicles on the very narrow road, particularly around numerous blind corners.
We could not find a camping spot, and drove till 7pm when finally we saw what we thought was a camping ground. It turned out to be a tourist hotel bathed in wisteria, and if we had dinner there, then camping in their grounds would not be a problem. We gratefully accepted, unfortunately it was the most expensive meal we have had, and the worst meal. It was however in very pleasant surroundings with log fire, comfortable cane chairs, and a bottle of Moroccan red wine!
Camp 13: Wisteria Camp. Distance travelled: 306Kms. Total: 5678Kms.
Tuesday 19th March: We just can not help ourselves"we found another dotted line. Why drive the 40Kms into Marrakech and back out in the next valley when there is a perhaps perfectly good track leading over the mountains.
This one was good, slightly used, and tracked 1,800metres up the side of the valleys. Often looking very quickly over the side was a near vertical drop off down to our original track below. The views were breathtaking. According to the map there was another short cut to the road to Oukaimeden our next destination. Confidently we found the turn off and headed off on the right hand piste. This was even narrower and clung precariously to the vertical rock face. There was no where to turn around should we need, let's hope no other vehicle approaches. We continued like this for 8Kms through and past villages that also clung precariously to the mountain side. The track slowly getting less used as we pass by each Kasbah house. Finally we needed to confirm our direction. The Moroccans speak their local language and French, no English. By our bad pronunciation of Oukaimedan it was confirmed that we were on the wrong track. Bugger!
.
Finding a suitable place to do a 6 point turn re retraced our steps. Much to the delight of the boys in one village who insisted on attempting to ride on the rear bumper bar of the truck as we very slowly (5-8KPH) negotiated the tight track. It was very disconcerting knowing that those boys could do themselves harm, yet I had to concentrate on the track as below the left hand mirror was a vertical drop. Thankfully they soon tired and allowed me to return all my attention to the road.
Finally back at the 'T' junction we continued on the same road for 2kms and then found the sign to right to Oukaimedan, this piste looked very unused and by this time Lyn was 'pist'ed off' of pistes. Continuing we soon joined the bitumen to Oukaimedan.
At 2,300metres we drove through and into the clouds, finally at 2,6000metres we arrived at the only true Moroccan sky resort. There is a little snow/ice on the road side and it is a cold 10degrees outside. We can not see because of the dense cloud cover but I estimate there is no real snow cover because most of the accommodation is deserted. Actually the place looks very run down.
Rugged up, we had yet another tajine (hot-pot) for an early dinner at 5pm and watched the truck disappear in the increasing cloud only 100metres from our table. Constantly we are offered by sellers, fossils, crystal geodes, beads, silver jewellery, Berber daggers etc, if not to buy then they are happy to swap. To date I have been offered 2 carpets for my hat, and a fossil for my jacket. Lyn was offered a fossil dish for her shoes. Lyn has some under sized shoes; let's see what we can swap those for!
With visibility at 50metres we slowly followed the road to a parking spot were we set camp.
Camp 14: In the Clouds Camp. Distance travelled: 118Kms. Total: 5796Kms.
Tuesday 20th March: Last night it was a cold minus 3 degrees, and we woke to snow on the vehicle.
Today to Marrakech.
Morocco Part 2
Monday 10th March 2008: We leave our desert camp at our now usual time of 9am and head towards the Atlas Mountains. Firstly a refuel and the internet visit in the town of Erfoud and to send postcards home.
Just as we were about to leave town, Lyn's front tooth fell out. It was an implant done some 20 years ago. Not wanting to look like all the local women, we needed to come up with a quick fix. I did not have any superglue on hand but I do have some engine block repairer. With some quick puttying of the mixture Lyn's tooth is now back in place and she can comfortable smile again".Three days later it is still in place!
We were driving past some old water wells, some of which were still in use so we stopped to investigate. As soon as we stopped a young man ran out from is tent and invited us in for tea. I do specifically remember his saying free and no obligations. We thought how friendly. He explained that each line of water wells belongs to a different tribe,( the Berbers, the Nomads etc) and as one goes dry they dig another in the same line but deeper into the aquifer.(now at 25metres) The tea was very sweet; particularly as he kept breaking big roughly cast lumps of sugar into the tea pot. Then came the crunch, "Look my brother digs these fossils" and "My sister makes this jewellery out of camel knee bones". Actually it was not camel knee bone but a cowrie shell, and looked very 'junkie'. Mohammed was very cleaver in is persuasion but I could not come at 700Dh (A$120) for this piece of junk, even including the cost of the cup of over sweet tea. Anyway with lots of back and forwards and by this time we were back in the vehicle and I had started the vehicle engine and ready to drive away the price was concluded at 50Dh (A$9.00). With much kissing of Lyn's hands in appreciation, we considered it an expensive cup of tea with a piece of junk jewellery as a bonus.
The country has changes to vast gibber plains as we head towards Todra Gorge in the High Atlas. We camped in Todra Gorge at the town of Tinerhir, at de Soeil Camp ground.
Camp 12: Todra Gorge Camp. Distance travelled: 226Kms. Total: 4192Kms.
Tuesday 11th March: Today and tomorrow we plan to do some off road tracks (pistes) between Todra Gorge and Dades Gorge crossing the High Atlas Mountains at 27,000metres. I had downloaded from the internet some brief directions from previous adventurers, and with a few local directions we headed off.
The piste followed the water course up the valley. Initially steep vertical walls on both sides, finally breaking into slightly wider valley as we climbed past 23,000 metres. The surrounding country is dry and barren, the hill people or Berbers just etching a living from herding goats and crudely growing potatoes, carrots and wheat in small isolated wet patches of the river valley. Finally the piste winds its way out of the valley up a snaked road cut into the mountain side onto the high plateau at the mountain pass of Tzi Tierherouzine at 2.7Km high.
Women are walking along the road carrying huge piles of sticks and the local bushes for the fire back home. We can not see any timber so consider they must travel quite some distance with this heavy load carried on much arched backs. At the village of Agoudal we had lunch at the local café. The Bruchette or shashlik as we know it and salad was good washed down with that sweet tea.
Leaving town we headed higher into the mountains on a much smaller piste. At 27,000 metres snow blocked the road. It had turned to ice, and below was soft clay, added to that the side slope angled the wrong direction towards the steep drop off way below. I do not need adventure like this. So we returned to the 27,000metre mountain pass at Tizi Teiherouzine, and camped the night alone and high in the snow covered Atlas.
Camp 13: 27,000metre Camp. Distance travelled: 126Kms. Total: 4318Kms.
Tuesday 12-13th March: Well we thought we would be alone, at 8.30pm that night however 3 Berber men approached the vehicle and called out "Want to buy hashish?" Following my decline "Do you have Bom Bom?" I thought this meant smokes, but we learn later in the day that it means lollies. They left us in peace to enjoy out mountain top camp in seclusion.
We could not find the other road across the top of the mountains to Dade's Gorge so retraced our steps down Toda Gorge and then the main road to Dade's. It was market day at Boumaine so wandered around the markets and purchased our eggs, and a few dates. We also spot a seller of colourful spices; coffee, ginger, tamarind, cumin, nutmeg, cinnamon, and curry.
Dade's Gorge is just as spectacular, the valley floor is green with new wheat, and trees are either flowering pink almonds or figs about to break bud. At the end of the gorge the road snakes itself back and forth up a near vertical incline. At the top we turn round and camp in the valley village. We are now resigned to camp ground accommodation as the norm.
This morning we watch the women cut both local grass on the road verge and field grown grasses for drying as winter feed. The young boys carry manure on donkey back to fertilise the fields. All very slow intensive work.
Heading to Ouarzazate, we stop for lunch and shared cooked pigeon, chips and salad. Very tasty. We have now left the Atlas Mountains and now travelling over vast rolling gibber plains heading south east. Still villages manage to edge a living from this arid area.
From Ouerzazate, we turn east in the direction of the Sahara Desert again and follow the Draa River Valley. This valley is known as "The valley of a 1,000 Kasbahs". As we descend from the dry strataed plateau we can see the meandering river valley and the green date palms stretch off into the distance.
Tonight we are camped amongst the palms in the valley. Our pre-dinner drinks accompanies by olives, dates, and some French cheese.
Camp 15: Date Palm Camp. Distance travelled: 176 + 223Kms. Total: 4717Kms.
Tuesday 14th March: Our day started with a two hour tour of the old Ksour or fortified stronghold, and its associated Kasbar at Tamnougalt. Built around 400AD, for a mud construction if has withstood time well.
All day we followed the Draa River valley and its date palm filled valley towards the desert. As we reached the more modern town of Zagora the air began to fill with dust blown up from the winds over the Sahara. The river has cut its way down from the plateau, but we must follow the snake road around and down the mountain edges until finally we pass out onto a dust filled plain. We know that 18Kms before the end of the road at the town of M'Hamid that there is a piste that leads out into the Sahara dune field. We find a track and guestimate that it is the correct one. We have no GPS readings for the dunes but know that from 'Lonely Planet' they are approx 50Kms east of M'Hamid.
We let the tyres down to 28psi and happily travel along. It is lateish in the afternoon so we cross-country to some dunes to the south and call camp. With deck chairs in hand, drinks and nibblies, we climb the dunes and watch the sun set. It is a shame that the air is so filled with dust; it does not make photography conducive.
Camp 16: Dune Camp. Distance travelled: 235Kms. Total: 4952 Kms.
Tuesday 15th March: The wind had settled over night and hence the air much clearer today. We are still in the now dry Draa River Valley but it has now spread out over a 20 kilometre wide valley, bounded by the hills of our far right (North) and the small sized dune field to our left (South). Hence my plan was to find the big 300metre high dunes we just drive west for 50K's, keeping the dune field in site on my left as we tracked down the valley.
We crossed gibber plains, and sandy river valleys, often we had to skirt smaller dune fields, but occasionally we had to punch through them. At 45K's from the turn off we arrive at Erg Chigaga Morocco's largest dunes at 310metres.
There are a few scattered tents catering for the more adventurous camel trekkers. (3 days by camel out from M'Hamid) From one of these tents, three men wave us down; reluctant at first, we accept their offer of tea. It is around mid day and that sand storm was brewing again. Visibility was down to 50 metres and the sand blowing off the tops of the dunes, and really impossible to go outside. We pleasantly accept their invitation to join them for lunch. The local speciality is tajine, (like a hot pot), but because they have no refrigeration it is all vegetables.
All afternoon the wind blows, Lyn is reading her 'Who' magazine and the three guys take an interest. Each reads it from cover to cover, well looks at the pictures anyway, and Lyn explains the stories. Lhsan (Lassin) has discovered the sudoku and is intent on completing the puzzle. Eventually we must tear out the page so he can continue.
The head man is Mbark, is brother runs the office in M'Hamid organising the camel trekkers to here, where Mback looks after them well. I am keen to move on but Mback insists we stay for dinner of Couscous. These guys are really genuine so we accept.
It is only 3pm, so Mback suggests he leads us to the top of the biggest dune. It is quite a climb but rewarding. The view to the south of this dune overlooks one of the stages of the Paris-Dakar event.
Preparation of a couscous dinner is a 3 hour event, no 3 minute couscous here. Hence we spend this time comfortably in their rudimentary but adequate kitchen watching he preparation as we chat. Lhsan is still hard at work trying to solve the sudoku. Now his two friends are trying to help and that really confuses the issue. Finally there are so many options on the original piece of paper that the initial numbers have to be copied again and again on to new bits of paper.
The soup, followed by couscous and vegetables was great. This was followed by some singing by Mback, his friend Mohammed, and Lhsan on native drums.
Lyn and I were truly impressed with these guys. Friendly, well spoken, and very genuine.
They can be contacted at http://www.caravanerenard.com/ or caravanerenard@yahoo.fr
The air is now cool and clear, and we camp where the truck is parked out side the camel rug clad desert tents.
Camp 17: Desert Fox Caravan Camp. Distance travelled: 81Kms. Total: 5034Kms.
Tuesday 16th March: This morning the air is clear again. Mback suggested yesterday that we could follow the valley another 80Kms to the outpost of Fourm Zguid, then head north on the road and pick up our planned trip. We agree this sounded great.
As we leave the sudoku puzzle is still unsolved.
For 30kms we follow a very soft sandy track along the edge of the dunes. The Canter handles it well and we float over one small dune after another following beside what is left of the mighty Draa River. Finally we are on the remnants of a vast dry lake. Mback said the last time this had water was in 1945. A flat plain with nothing in every direction, except for that water mirage at the edge of the every horizon.
Our rout had taken us along a path within 40Kms and parallel to the Algerian border, so it was not surprising that eventually we would be stopped at a military outpost and a scant check of our documents. It was then a very rough stony track into Fourm Zguid where we lunched beside the bitumen road that would take us all the way back to Ouarzazate on the edge of the High Atlas again.
We are camped at the UNESCO world heritage site of Benhaddou, apparently the most exotic and best preserved Kasbar in the Atlas region. That will be tomorrow's discovery!
Camp 18: Benhaddou Kasbar Camp. Distance travelled: 258Kms. Total: 5292Kms.
Morocco Part 1
Thursday 6th March 2008: We were awoken at 6am this morning from our car park sleep with the prayer calling from the 20 or so mosques in the immediate vicinity. Now we know we are in Morocco.
The streets were busy yesterday evening, but this morning they are quite up until 10am. We indulged in some very strong, but good local coffee and some very sweet but tasty cakes waiting for the internet to open. My memory stick decided not to work so it was a challenge to find a new one. The locals are very friendly and are keen to help. And with that help we found upstairs room selling computer stuff and our 1GB stick for less than A$20, and of course, plus the 7 Dirhams (A$1.20) tip for the friendly help.
We left own around midday and followed a valley into the Riff Mountains and to the town of Chefchaouen. The town is wedged onto the side of the mountains, the small streets steep but the surrounding views picturesque. We parked the truck and walked up and down the busy streets which were cluttered with vendors selling the local produce: oranges, lots of good looking greens and vegies, eggs, live chickens, and fresh meat. Intermingled are myriads of second hand shoes and clothes, then the hardware requirements for local farmers.
Now on the other side of the Riff Mountains we are camped near the old Roman ruins of Volubilis. Having two hours as the sun set was a perfect time to explore. Typical Roman columns and paved streets, waterfalls, and fast courtyards, this must have been impressive in its time. Atop two of the largest columns were two stalk nests, the young chicks attended to by both parents.
We disobeyed our own rule in trying to find a camp site before sunset, and finished paying a local 15Dh (A$2 and a bit) to camp beside his 'shop' Well more a bench with some rock displayed that he is trying to sell. I guess we will have to look at this tomorrow morning before we are allowed to leave!
Camp No 8: Roman Ruins Camp. Distance Travelled: 269Kms Total: 3260Kms
Friday 7th March: As we arose at 7am this morning out new found friend was eagerly awaiting for us to alight from the vehicle. Well, he had to wait until we had had our first cup of coffee. Now that we were ready to move he ran over with a bag of rocks, hat turned out to be lumps of calcite, not very exciting, but he wanted to swap these for some clothes. Well at least that is what we concluded. As I tried to give the rocks back, he refused, only running away and returning with two crudely made clay cooking stands. I really did not have a shirt that I had to give away, so we settled on 4 biros, a smile, a firm hand shake, and for Lyn, a cuddle and a kiss!
As we drove, only 2 kilometres past where we turned around last night was a camping ground. But we do have a bag of useless rocks to remember the evening.
Arriving at Meknes, we parked the truck, and headed off into the medina. This is the old walled part of the city. Mud houses packed tightly together, streets or lanes so narrow some of them you can touch both sides with outstretched arms. They were like a maze. More than once we were lost, it was only the inbuilt GPS that saved us. Past shoe and clothing stalls, mattress stuffers, and bed makers, we found the fresh food markets, and from different stalls we purchased our supplies.
Heading deep into the east of Morocco we started to climb the Atlas Mountains. At 2,500metres we could see the spectacular snow capped High Atlas in the distance.
Descending back into the valley, we are camped at Timnay, with a group of French campervans, and with those snow capped mountains as a backdrop.
Camp No 9: French Tourist Camp. Distance Travelled: 263Kms. Total: 3460Kms
Saturday 8th March: Couple of small problems to start the day with, firstly he computer has started to again split its pages into 5 horizontal pages, making downloading of our photographs impossible, although I have a work around for 'word'. Secondly we are constantly running out of small change. The ATM's are plentiful, but we get 200Dh notes and they are too big for the vendors.
The area we are driving through is like the Grand Canyon. The Ziz River has cut a huge canyon through surrounding sedimentary layers, and we follow the river for 200Kms all the way into the Sahara Desert where it eventually disappears. The surrounding country is a palaeontologist's paradise; beside the road are sellers of fossils. I check out a few, but am pleased we did not buy anything until we reached south of Erfoud. At the Museum of Fossils I acquired a very nice Trilobite and a 10cm Dinosaur tooth for 150Dh each (about A$20).
Beside the river are date palms and typical square mud brick houses. Along the road the locals use donkeys as the means of transport, both for themselves and their produce. The men are dressed in jellaba the traditional robes, and the women like wise attired. If it was not for the satellite dishes on the house rooves, the scene would be just out of a religious story
Eventually the mountains disappear, and the ground gives way to a flat gibber plain. In the distance appear the huge Sahara Sand Dunes of Erg Chebbi.
It is beside these dunes we are camped tonight, in a tourist camp. Dinner was a traditional Moroccan mince dish, with lots of fresh salad.
Camp No 10: Sahara Desert Camp. Distance Travelled: 313Kms Total: 3774Kms
Sunday 9th March: We started today with the obligatory sunrise camel trek up the dunes. It was still dark at 5.45am when we rose to a chilly morning. For about an hour we slowly climbed the big dunes. We both commented on the fact that we were pleased it was only for an hour and not an all day trip. The single humped camel is not at all comfortable on the pelvis. Sitting on the dues top we watched the sun rise over the Algerian mountains to a give a hazy mist over the valley, unfortunately it was not concussive to photography.
Our destination was the furtherest point that Morocco stretched into the Sahara and on the very edge of Algeria. Tarouz was the small village where the road ends, and has nothing to offer other than the locals indicating to turn around. I had other plans; the maps show a dotted line up the other side of the valley that would return us about 50Kms from whence we started. It was a rough sandy track, or piste in Moroccan. We think we are isolated but at three junctions where we are thinking which way to go, miraculously a local appears on a small motor bike happy to help with directions"for a few Dirhams of course.
The locals are very friendly, especially the young ones, always waving at the road side. But we are getting a bit annoyed at the constant haggling for money. If you stop on the side of the road to take a photograph someone is always running to you to offer tours, camel rides, camping, or just to charge you parking fees.
Finally we are moving in the correct GPS direction, unaided by willing helpers. Travelling over vast gibber plains and folded sedimentary ridges, we discover a valley where the rocks are rich with fossils. Ammonites, and other shell fish are in a continuous line of strata. Naturally this line has been dug over to supply all those tourist shops we see on the road side. It was however nice to add a couple of self found pieces to our collection of fossils.
Our plan was to free camp next to the big red Sahara dunes, but every place we thought was looking promising already had a series of mud houses or a tourist camp. It is hard to find a quiet spot even in the Sahara Desert. We forget that a country that has been inhabited for thousands of years has every good spot already spoken for. Finally after numerous attempts we settle for a small valley overlooking the dunes. We are about 12kms off the road, but even here vehicles drive by, and even the odd tourist train of camels out for a sunset ride appear over the rise. Finally after sunset, all is quiet.
Camp 11: Hard to find Isolation Camp.
Distance travelled: 191Kms. Total: 3965Kms.
GoannaTracks South to Morocco
UK, France, Andorra, Spain, Ceuta (the Spanish enclave in Nth Africa).
Tuesday 26th "Thursday 28th February 2008: We arrived in London after a long 36 hours of travelling, and then jumped on a 3 hour train trip to Devon where our truck is stored. It is now 8.30 in the evening and was kindly met by Simon Buck of Devon 4x4. Simon had been storing our vehicle since our arrival from our Russian expedition in October 07.
Our plan is to head south to Morocco for 4 weeks of touring. Morocco was chosen for two reasons, firstly, we like the idea of the vast open spaces and the proximity to the great Sahara Desert, and secondly we plan to compete in the Morocco Outback Challenge in out competition vehicle in 2009, so this gives us the opportunity to check out the region. Besides, a road tour of the museums and churches of Europe does not appeal.
It only took 5 hours to prep the vehicle before we said our goodbyes to Devon and headed out to Poole for our overnight passage to Cherbourg in France. Our only negative was that a lot of items stored in the vehicle had gone mouldy with the wet English weather. In Poole we found a laundromat, or as they call it locally a laundrette and that rectified most of the mould.
Once in France I was surprised how quickly I fell into the system of driving on the wrong side of the road. One of our first needs was to restock our larder for our travels so it w
as into a French supermarket. French wine, real Champagne, pâté, and cheeses were not on the list but I could not resist.
South of Rennes we exited the freeway and visited the small coastal sea port of Granville and then the UNESCO World Heritage site of Le Mont St-Michel. This is a magnificent old abbey set on an island rock just off the coast.
We had originally planned to travel further south, but jet lag and lack of sleep was catching up. We headed to what we thought looked like a quiet coastal town of St Nazaire but it turned out to be a large industrial port. In such a large town it was difficult to find a quiet isolated spot to set camp and all the 'camping' grounds we saw were closed because it was no longer summer. Finally we found a camp ground open. The young lady could only speak French and wrote down the price on the booking form. Euro42 seemed extremely expensive, but with 10 hours sleep in he last 3 days, I had just enough left in me to ask 'why so expensive?" By this time the owners wife had arrived and said "Why do you think the price of 12 Euro it is expensive?" Then I had to explain and apologise to the young lady because I had misread her European writing of 12 as 42. That night we slept for 10hours!
Camp 1 " Wrong Price Camp, St Nazaire. Distance Travelled: 664Kms
Friday 29th February: We have been driving past towns with household names. In the UK it was Axminster (carpets), and then in France, it was Chateaubriand (steak), Bordeaux, Cognac, and Cadillac. Our destination was Toulouse where we had pre-booked a tour of the Airbus A380 assembly plant. We turned of the autobahn about 20kms from Toulouse to find a camp site and a restaurant. Lyn had had enough of highway food and wanted anything but pizza. As luck would have it, the only place we found was a pizza restaurant.
Camp was in the middle of the provincial town Grenade at a designated site for motor homes. Very noisy but OK.
Camp 2 " Grenade Town Camp. Distance Travelled: 649Kms. Total: 1313Kms
Saturday 1st March: Our morning walk around town rewarded us with market day. We had to indulge in more pâté, fresh salad items, and a typical French breakfast of coffee and croissants.
The Airbus tour was great. From manufacturing plants all over Europe the final assembly is done here in Toulouse. For a mere Euro 220 to 275 Million you too can have one. Just keep in mind that if you want more than one, they will offer a discount for quantity!! To date 189 have been sold, including to Qantas, 50 to Emirates, and one privately.
After getting lost exiting Toulouse we are now camped halfway up the Pyrenees Mountains separating France from Spain. A very idilic commercial camp set in the valley of steep mountains. We can see snow in the distance!
Camp 3 " Pyrenees Mountain Camp. Distance Travelled: 156Kms. Total: 1469Kms
Sunday 2nd March: It was a lazy start to today, about midday before we got on the road, but it was Sunday so that was OK".and it was a cold 6'C. There actually was another reason. The Pyrenees Mountains are dotted with caves that show signs of pre-ice age habitation, and we have pre-arranged a 2.30pm tour of one of the largest. The Grotto de Niaux was a ceremonial cave, and 1200metres into the cave was a large cavity, there on the walls were etchings of Bison, Ibex, and horses done in black charcoal. These etchings were 15,000 years old! This is real history.
The afternoons drive was up an impressive snaking road to 2,500metres and the country of Andorra. The snow cover increased as we drove. Finally as we crossed the border and into the town of Pas de La Casa, the snow fields surrounded the town, with ski lifts and slopes everywhere. Andorra is a duty free country and the streets are busy with traffic and shoppers. For us the greatest benefit was that fuel was 30% cheaper than France.
Dinner was at a sidewalk café with perhaps too much sangria, and our camp was amongst perhaps 50 other European motor homes in the Pas de La Casa car park.
Camp 4: Pas de La Casa Car Park Camp.
Distance Travelled:75Kms Total: 1544Kms
Monday 3rdMarch:C Leaving camp we took the more indirect route to the capital of Andorra de Vella. Winding up and down the steep mountains, often the road twisted above and below us as it twisted down near vertical slopes. The snow was up to half a metre deep on the side of the road. Soon we crossed the border into Spain. Customs only giving a quick look into the camper and asking about the quantity of cigarettes and liqueur.
As we wound our way down from the Pyrenees the country dried out. Olive trees and what we think are peach trees dominate the fields beside the road. We decided to free camp tonight, but in a country that has been populated for thousands of years there is not an inch of free ground. Every side road leads to a house; off the main freeways olive trees are right to the road verge. By 7.30pm we are looking for ever smaller roads, and take the exit to the town of Xatia. Within that town we get lost and finish up driving up increasingly narrower streets, until finally we clip the door awning of one house with the side mirror of the truck. This excites a very old man who rattles lots and lots in Spanish. We frequent the 'sorry' word as we back off is house trying not to run over his motorbike. We are at this time really craving for the open spaces of Australia, I would even settle for the treeless plains of Mongolia, or the steppes of Russia. I am so pleased the vehicle is only 2metres wide as we finally exit the tight streets.
Finally we are out of town and at 8.30pm find a side road to set camp, but only before we disturb a couple practicing the Karma sutra in the front seat of a small compact.
Dinner was an extra strong rum for me and a vodka for Lyn, followed by some French cheese on bread.
Camp No 5: Lovers Lane Camp. Distance Travelled: 608Kms Total: 2152Kms
Tuesday 4th March: Today we follow the E15 or AP7 down the coast through the provinces of Valencia, Andalusia, and Malaga. The country is generally dry and stony, with vast sedimentary layered deposits making up all the topography. In the north endless fields of oranges, and as we head south the agriculture is under thousands of acres of plastic. In these green houses tomatoes are the main crop, and there must be millions of tones grown in this region.
Dotted along the coast are some beautiful typical Spanish houses, and in the built up areas huge complexes of tourist condominiums. I fail to comprehend the 'investment' in such mega structures. The air is constant smog, and the horizon indistinguishable from the sky to the sea. There are no quiet spots along this Mediterranean Coast.
South of Malaga, is a continuous line of hotels, apartments and condominiums. We manage to find by good luck and not by good management a camping ground on the main road. Although busy it is welcome, and with a long shower, and a bottle of that French Champagne all is good. For tomorrow we board the ship for Africa!
Camp No 6: Mediterranean Seaside Camp.
Distance Travelled: 625Kms Total: 2778Kms
Wednesday 5th March: Today the prices of the condominiums have risen, because we have blue sky, and I can see the horizon. The reason is because we now have a strong cold wind that has blown all that smog away.
We follow the Mediterranean Coast all the way south until we can see the Rock of Gibraltar. As we head south the condos, and the houses become grander. Strangely, purple is the colour of choice for the most expensive.
At the Spanish port of Algeciras, we find our way to the high speed ferry loading point. We are about an hour and a half too early and the locals are already profiteering from us by charging €11 for parking the vehicle in the line up. It is not really a ferry, more of a super large high speed catamaran that carried cars, trucks and 800 passengers. The crossing takes only 45 minutes and we are in the continent of Africa.
Arriving in the Spanish enclave of Ceuta, we immediately set about to do 4 things. Purchase a Morocco map (impossible), find an internet Café (no can do), buy an ipod because it is a duty free port and ours is broken (very little selection available, so no go) and fill up with cheap diesel " Yes we achieved this. At €.90/Lt compared to Spain at €1.30 and France €1.50 (A$2.50). Fortunately our full tank from Andorra lasted the 1500Kms to here.
It took a little time to locate the border crossing to Morocco, and about one hour to complete the formalities. Our biggest problem is that we still do not have the 3rd party Green Card. I tried for weeks to get one in the UK on the internet. I also tried personal contacts in France, and the original Green Card supplier in Latvia. All unsuccessfully. We need one for Morocco, but the sales office at the border has closed down. An 'official' tourist guide helped us through the paper trail and cleared it with the border chief. He then accompanied us in the truck for some 35 minutes to the town of Tetouan to buy insurance. At the insurance office they explained they do not sell Green Card insurance. So not sure where to from here. The 'guide' said the papers we have are OK, but I am not so sure. Watch this space>>>
We are now camped in the car park in the centre of Tetouan. Walked through the medina, (the old markets of the town inside the walled city), spent 20minites saying NO, we do not want to buy carpets, and just had a great meal of soup, and meat & salads in a local very busy market shop.
We did however have another win"we purchased a Morocco road map
Camp No7: Tetouan Carpark Camp. Distance Travelled:150Kms Total:
The Final Leg - Across Europe + Trip Costs
22-30th September: Our drive west to London started with the 4x4 track out of the Russian 4x4 competition area and continually improved from dirt roads, to country roads, two lane Russian highways with their usual unevenness, to Poland's 4 lane toll freeway, then Germany's 6 and 8 lane autobahns. The reality had hit us that the adventure was drawing to a close.
There would be no more visits from the Mongolian herdsmen, nor the Vodka drinking friendly Russians. Now we are just one of the many vehicles zapping along the highway a hurry to get somewhere. One does not even feel part of the country as you pass through. These super highways are contained within by long concrete barriers keeping out the surrounding world.
I had driven over 24 thousand kilometres when we arrived at the Latvian border, and only then, did one of the officials notice that my international drivers licence was valid up to 3,500 kilo, when our vehicles weighed 4490 kilo. (The GMV on the registration papers.) In Australia our standard licence is valid for 4,500 kilo, but not the international one. This I had also not noticed. After 2 hours of discussion the three stared official came out of the 'Control' building and said "One vehicle Latvia, one vehicle Ruski". Bill fortunately had a truck licence hence he did not have a problem. When we said to the official "How do we get to London?" his response was "You can walk, or go by bus, but the vehicle stays in Russia"
"But"But." Etc as I try to persuade him
"It is not my problem!" was his response as he walked away to prepare the deportation papers.
We had a young lady, one of the border control officials, translating for us, who I felt was a little on our side. With her help, I thought we may have a solution. What if we returned to 'No mans land' in the middle where the Duty Free Shop was, we could perhaps arrange for one of truck drivers to drive my vehicle across the border. The three stared official stated there were cameras watching and the paperwork had already been done, so that could not happen.
Our hearts sank, and as we were madly planning our next move to leave the truck in Russia and fly back to Australia to obtain the necessary paperwork, a second three stared official arrived on the scene. He seemed to grasp the situation and immediately arranged a driver from a passing van to jump in my truck and drive it to a holding area within Latvia. Lyn and I could now proceed to have our passports stamped and walk through the gates into Latvia.
Somewhere in this whole process we had become real people, not just another number in the procession through the border. That, and some fast, and friendly talking saved the day. This may also serve as a warning to other travellers to recognise the weight difference on our driver's licences. Technically I am driving illegally in Europe " but only if I get caught!
As we approached the border from Russia into Latvia there was a long line of trucks but nothing like the 49 Kilometres that were waiting to enter Russia from Latvia. The distance we measured; and yes, 49 kilometres. There must have been thousands of trucks and one can only imaging the costs of all that freight standing idle for days. It is a fair indication of the exploding demand in Russia for foreign goods and the rapid growth of the economy.
Similarly from Germany to Poland the truck line stretched for 22 kilometres.
In the Netherlands we caught up with Fred Krijgsman. Fred, a freelance journalist and photographer for many 4x4 magazines, I have known for years having met him during events in Malaysia, New Zealand and many Outback Challenges. We camped in the trucks outside his house that his family has occupied for 98 years. The house and street were both narrow, the vehicles making an unusual addition to the old neighbourhood.
Following doing the Holland windmill thing, we headed south and crossed the English Channel by ferry. Feeling initially a little uncomfortable back on the right side of the road, we settle in quickly, and dropped in at Canterbury, Stonehenge, and Bath for the tourist thing on our way to Devon.
The vehicles are now cleaned. Bill's prepared for the container journey back to Australia, and ours, left here to be collected when we return to continue our travels.
Camp 93-94: Simon & Liz Buck's - Devon 4x4
Current Position: UK
Highlights: Not having to go back to Russia when Latvia would not accept my drivers licence, Holland, and catching up with friends in Holland and the UK,
Total Distance of trip: 25,500 Kilometres
Currently our plans are to return in February 2008 to spend 6 weeks exploring Morocco, Mauritania, and Senegal, then in July/August to see Ireland and Scotland. The eventual plan is to return to Morocco in 2009 and cross the Sahara to Egypt and drive to Cape Town. Plans change"but I must start with a plan.
Many travellers would ask, "It must be expensive travelling like this?" I do not believe so.
Firstly we carried our own accommodation, and we only stayed in hotels for a total of 6 days in 4 months. Food we mostly purchased in local markets and prepared ourselves, or eat at small road side truck stops. Travelling in undeveloped Eastern Russia and Mongolia was the best, western Russia was a too much of a road trip. Our costs in Mongolia for food (and we eat well), drink (wine, beer, spirits) and entry to national parks etc was A$2.90 per person per day. Eastern Russia was probably around A$4.50 per person per day.
Hence fuel is the main expense:
Vladivostok to Magadan " 5,400Km, 900Lt, A$861.00. 17Lt/100Km or 16.5mpg. This section we were pushing fast!
Magadan to Mongolia " 5,950Km, 792Lt, A$849.00. 13Lt/100Km or 21mpg
Mongolia " 5250Km, 604Lts, A$1017.00. 13Lt/100Km or 21mpg.
Mongolia to St Petersburg " 7027Kms, 1008Lts, $698.00 12Lt/100Km or 23mpg.
St Petersburg to Devon(UK) " 4280Kms, 275Lts, $816.00
The trip has been great. The best experiences happened when they were not planned.
The friendship and help provided by the Orista Company in Port Vostochny during our three week delay in getting the vehicles.
The 3 Russian firemen who arrived at our camp site to go swimming, and ended up drinking mates.
Breakfast at the Zamackta Weather Station, after asking directions on logging tracks to Lake Baikal.
The numerous Mongolian herdsmen who dropped in to say 'hello' and finished asking us back to their ger camp.
The camel train that arrived out of the desert at our 'isolated' camp.
The invitations to the 4x4 competitions
And the people.
Until the next adventure
Cheers
Kym & Lyn
St Petersburg, The Vesskiy 4X4 Competition
18-21st September: St Petersburg is spectacular, and as I said with Moscow, a must see before you leave this planet. The city was built by Tsar Peter the Great in the 18th century as his summer residence and as a showcase city to the word. He achieved this and created perhaps one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Exotic and opulent buildings, canals and fountains. Without creating a tourist log, our highlight was the hermitage; the winter palace that is now a museum. Stocked full of Rubens, Rembrandts and the odd Leonardo da Vinci; thousands of other paintings; then there is the palace fittings; gold leafed roofs; malachite and lapis lazuli 2metre high vases; marble staircases, thousands of square metres of inlayed timber floors using up to 75 different timbers, etc etc. The photos we took only touch on the grandeur.
We spent the next day touring other sights, but being Wednesday many were closed, hence we headed out of town, but not before stopping in at the Piskaryovskoe Cemetery where half a million WWII victims are buried in mass graves. This is as a result of starvation when the Germans surrounded the city and tried to wipe St Petersburg from the face of the earth. Actually one million died in the 900 days of the siege; up to 30,000 died per day. Very moving as you stand overlooking the mass of symmetrically laid out head stones.
On to more exciting things, we had an invitation from Yuri Ovchinnikov, who runs the Ladoga 4x4 Trophy, to see one of the finals of the Russian 4x4 Challenge " The Vesskiy Forrest 4X4 Event. We arrived at the competition site around midnight some 300 kilometres from St Petersburg.
The vehicles were varied and some very impressive chain driven trucks with up to 3 winches weighing only 1300 kilo. The competition is very well run all 'controlled' by GPS tracking. Over 400 PS points, 280 Kilometres all to do in 52 hours, through mostly swamps, clay overgrown hills and chest deep rivers. Interesting is that all four levels of trucks, and the quad bikes do the same course. This is all done with only 5 competition managers/marshals.
Now we have a 4 day drive to London from Russia via Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Germany, Holland, France, and finally England. 4 days 8 countries.
Camp 86: Last Night in Russia near Latvian Border
Highlights: St Petersburg and its Hermitage Museum, Top Russian 4x4 Comp.
Total Distance to Date: 22,094 Kilometres
Moscow
12-18th September: Moscow is a dynamic city, I would put it as a must see (+ St Petersburg) in one's life. For Australia, white mans history is so recent, here buildings and events are dated from the 13 hundreds. What I find impressive is that so much history is still intact.
We walked our legs off and metro'd (the underground train) for 3 days, and covered only some of the best. We paid our respects to Boris Yelsen, Khrushchev, Raisa Gorbachev, and Stalin's second wife " Nadezhda at the cemetery. We walked the streets and marvelled at the upmarket shops in Arbat and the newly finished and remodelled GUM department store. Most impressive was viewing Russia's Diamond collection of rough and cut Diamonds, and the hundreds of Gold and Platinum nuggets in the Kremlin. On top of our list were the old weapons and suits of armour in the Armoury.
Unfortunately Red Square was closed for the Military Tattoo Festival so we were unable to see neither the Square nor the embalmed Mr Lenin, not that he should be admired for the atrocities he committed.
We had an invitation to a local 4x4 club event some 180 kilometres north of Moscow towards St Petersburg, so we gratefully accepted. At club level the vehicles were not as well developed as our competition trucks, however their driving style was impressive. Using mostly UAZ 4x4's, these were chopped, and lifted, and for tyres - Supper Swamper up to 36"x 14" but no lockers " yet! Power was not great but in the swamps these light weight vehicles and big tyres did well. Invariably on the hill climbs the small diffs often broke. With petrol engines well waterproofed, they proved their survival by driving through water that covered the bonnet.
At event presentation, I presented to one competitor an 'Outback Challenge' beanie. In a near standard UAZ with 33" tyres he drove with his brain through the course and I thought deserved recognition. He came 3rd in the competition, being beaten only by much modified vehicles. The club president also presented to the four of us club bandannas.
Now in an apartment in St Petersburg, we have two days to see the sights. Not really enough time, but we again have an invitation to see one of the top events in the 4x4 Competition World using highly modified vehicles. This is only 250K's out of St Petersburg so we are going there, before we make the dash to the UK. We are unable to change the dates of our tickets as all flights are full for the next 20 days so we are confirmed to leave Heathrow on the 3rd October.
Camp 82-83: St. Petersburg private apartment
Highlights: Moscow Kremlin Museums, particularly Russian's Diamond Fund and the Armoury, a local 4X4 Comp
Total Distance to Date: 21,300 Kilometres
Barnaul to Moscow
6-11th September 2007: And what a road trip is was. First a 435K day then 700,785, 840, 667, and our final run into Moscow at 400kilometres. It was Bill and Gay's part of the trip that they were responsible for and they will led us across Russia, until I pick up the lead again as we exit Russia into Estonia and to the UK. The road conditions varied continually, but generally improved as we headed west into the more populated areas. It was agreed that we should cover this part of the country relatively quickly, giving us more time in Moscow. At least 4 days for the city, and Andrey from the Russian 4x4 magazine suggested the possibility of seeing a 4x4 competition on the weekend.
After leaving the city of Barnaul we travelled long flat roads by endless wheat fields. The fields although vast in size were intermingled with clumps of birch trees. The country is very flat on the 600 kilometres road from Novosibirsk to Omsk the height above sea level never changed by more than 5 metres, it was to be another 1500K before we saw a rise above 100metres.
We think of Australia as a big country " think again, because Russia is hard to comprehend the size.
I have always thought of the Urals Mountains as an impressive range; however it is mostly only low hills around 250 metres. What is impressive is that it divides Europe from Asia and stretches from the Artic Circle to the Caspian Sea. The oil and mineral wealth of this area is driving the Russian economy. In Tyumen, the economic centre of the Urals the sky line is filled with construction cranes. Beside the freeway the new vehicle show rooms of BMW, Skoda, Chrysler, and VW are as impressive as any I have ever seen. On the streets, the vehicles are just as impressive " Hummers, Porsche, VW Tourags etc.
Most of the major towns we bypass, but in Yekaterinburg we insist we stop, to sight the place that the Bolsheviks in 1918 murdered Tsar Nicholas II and the rest of the Romanov family. The original merchants building was destroyed in 1977 under orders from Boris Yeltin, but in its place, and to commemorate the above, is one of the most elaborate, and expensive Roman Orthodox Churches ever built. We meekly open the large wooden doors to be spellbound with the ornate gold facade stretching 5 stories or more up above us. Yekaterinburg has only been opened to foreigners since 1990 as it was of major importance to the military as a weapons developmental area and many of the rockets and planes are proudly on display in school yards and parks. In fact at the entrance to the city is a sample of the SAM rocket that shot down the American U2 spy plane during the height of the cold war in 1962.
It was Saturday night, and we walked the wide streets to find a rock band playing in the town centre. The music echoed around the buildings and large TV screens carried the pictures and advertisements. The old 18th and 19th century buildings intermingled with modern structures shows the richness of this city and surrounding area. It is the gateway to Siberia from the east and the mineral wealth of the Urals just to the west.
Camp 76-79: Hotel Milan, Moscow
Current Position: Moscow or /Mockba.
Highlights: 4,000 Kilometre Road Trip
Total Distance to Date: 20,400 Kilometres
Back in Russia
Monday 3rd August 2007 continued: The border crossing into Russia was uneventful. About 2 hours on the Mongolian side, and the same time on the Russian side. Each is separated by 25 kilometres of no mans land. Interesting the temporary import documents for the vehicles we waited 3 weeks to get in Port Voschney took only 20 minutes here. We paid 10,000T (A$10) in Mongolia for something, and in Russia 80RUB (A$3.20) for quarantine, and 250RUB (A$10.00) for the vehicle import documents.
Currently we are camped in Russia about 175 kilometres north of the border, beside a fast flowing river. Either side the steep craggy mountains stretch up their snow covered peaks. The mountains are covered with pine or conifer trees and the river banks by these large 'cork wood' trees. The cork woods are slowly changing their leaf colour from green to orange and red. It is great to see trees again.
We are now in the Altai Mountains and expect some spectacular rugged scenery.
Camp 68: Altai River Camp
Current Position: Back in Russia (Altai region)
Highlights: Uureg Nuur, Achit Nuur, Olgly a Kazakh city, A drinking session with a Kazakh family. Border crossing to Russia.
Total Distance to Date: 16,150 kilometres
Tuesday 4-6th September: Since leaving the GPS spaghetti roads of Mongolia, it is obvious we are back in a prosperous community. The two lane bitumen road arrived immediately at the Russian border, and has grown wider and smoother ever since. Into Barnaul and it had grown into a 6 lane freeway. The pace of society is reflected in the driving habits, they are all racing to meet their Maker; passing on top of hills, blind corners etc. Many times we have to move off the road for oncoming traffic and break as they move back in. Testimony is the many road side memorials that dot the roads; set atop with a steering wheel, a picture of the deceased and surrounded by plastic flowers.
Autumn is starting to happen, the white barked Birch trees are changing from green to gold. Occasionally as we drive we are showered with falling golden leaves. Moving north we leave the high mountains and are in more agricultural areas. The road follows one river valley after another. The small river we camped by a couple of days ago is now a vast river with cruise boats. It hurried down the last 1200metres in grade 2 to 5 rapids, now it must slow down; it is only 250 metres above sea level and still must travel over 4,000 kilometres to the Artic Sea.
The shops and markets are full of consumer items, advertising billboards blast their message to 'buy me'. In reality it is like home, so unfortunately the road seems only a drive to be done. Such a change from the openness and peace of country Mongolia.
Since leaving the border three days ago we have tried to get registration of our visas at Police stations, Post offices, and even border control points but to no avail. It is a requirement that they must be registered within 3 days of arrival, so we opted to 'shout' ourselves a stay in a hotel and get registration. Hotel Siberia in Barnaul provided all that, and a very, very long hot shower. We do have a hot shower every night in the camper, but one always had to be conservative with the water as we only carry 60 litres.
Now totally refreshed we head tomorrow towards Moscow.
Camp 70: Actually Hotel Siberia in Barnaul.
Current Position: Barnaul- Russia
Highlights: Autumn Leaves, Staying in Hotel and 20 minute shower!
Total Distance to Date: 17,023 Kilometres
Mongolia 5 - West to the Border
Thursday 30th August: What a beautiful start to today. The three horsemen of yesterday evening arrived into our camp on a camel train. We 'talked' and shared tea and jam on bread.
We were each very impressed with our respective 'machinea' (car in Mongolian / Russian); they in our vehicles and us in their camel train. Finally after some Polaroid pics we all parted having touched another world.
Uvs Nuur is the largest fresh water lake in Mongolia, so large they call it a sea. Unfortunately it is very salty and devoid of any fish, surrounded by treeless desert we only stayed for our morning coffee break. As we approached Ulaangom, a small fresh water river flows into the desert from the surrounding mountains. On the river flood plain they are harvesting the native grasses and stacking them into huge piles on the back of trucks for winter feed. All this is done by hand, all very primitive by our standards.
Arriving at the markets in Ulaangom we had lunch at one of the many side stalls. One very large bowl of noodles and meat and that weak milky tea was 1,000T (A$1.00). The market stalls mostly sold Chinese imports, everything from generators to plastic kitchen wear, plus a vast cross section of clothing " Mongolian riding boots to Chinese children's clothes, many with incorrect English spelt words. In the food hall we had many choices of meats again, this time we could also have chosen horse. Horse meat is dark orange red and was proudly displayed on the shelf above the horse head lying on the floor below. We bypassed that, and stayed with some lamb chops"well actually mutton ribs!
After updating the blog at the local internet, we purchased some fire wood for 1500T (A$1.50) and headed out of town. Just as we left town we noticed they were hand making bricks in the river bed and had them out in the sun to dry.
In Ulaangom we found the start of a bitumen road, the first we had seen for 5,000 kilometres. Travelling the stony desert plain we turned left off this new road onto a mountain valley track. This took us from the plain at 800metres up the valley to a mountain pass at 1,900metres, from here the country changed again completely. Now we are into grassy mountains as far as we can see. On the horizon in two directions are vast snow capped peaks. We are now entering the Mongolian Altai Mountain chain, this we will eventually follow into Russia.
Our camp was in a very private spot on the edge of Uureg Nuur (Lake). The water was mirror calm and reflected the 3,000metre mountains; unfortunately the air is hazy and disappointing for photography. The crystal clear water and rolled pebble beach was inviting us for a swim. Lyn, and with some encouragement, I indulged. As Lyn said "It was like a brain freeze from the legs up".
Friday 31st August: Shortly after leaving the lake we passed some ancient burial sites containing 'turkic balbals'. These are squat carved figurines from the 4th or 5th century. There were more of those piles of stones we had seen before but more elaborate, in wagon wheel pattern. Around the outside were then smaller circles again, and long lines of upright stones.
Crossing the next pass, on a very rough two wheeled track we climbed close to the Gods at 2,553metres. Spectacular views only marred by the haze. Proceeding down the other side I managed to get the vehicle bogged in some melting permafrost ground and had to be recovered by Bill's winch.
Finally back into the valley (but still at 1500metres) we found two deer stones that are well preserved. We are becoming very proficient in archaeological discoveries.
Camp is by Achit Nuur (Lake), surrounded by those wondrous rugged mountains, and closer, grazing camels and horses. On the lake are magpie geese. Another magical orange sunset ends today.
Saturday 1st September: Following leaving the lake we crossed the only bridge we have seen for some time and began to follow the river valley. The river provides a micro climate in this semi arid area. Lush grasses grow beneath what I have guessed as cork wood trees. So lush is the area that the number of gers is significant. They are now Kazakh people in this area and their gers have a higher done than the Mongolian type. The Kazakhs migrate back and forth between Mongolia and Kazakhstan following the feed for their herds.
We give a lift to a family of four to the next village we are travelling to, but that plan falls apart as the town is on the other side of this major river, and there is no bridge. The track at this stage has all but disappeared and when he indicated that we can cross and puts his hand on TOP of the bull bar to indicate the water height, our immediate response is 'No way'. The family then strangely and confidently continues with us on the hour drive to Olgly, the capital of this region.
Olgly is very different to other Mongolian towns, again that Kazakh influence. Gone are the gers in town, now we have mud over timber built square houses all with flat rooves. They are not, but they look like Mexican hacienda type. The markets also prove uninteresting to us, we think and hope we bought cow steak, but it could be horse!
Our plan to drive up the valley to the snow topped mountains was thwarted by being unable to cross that river, and also Bill's decision that he did not want to drive back the 30 kilometres on the other side of the river from Olgly. Being Saturday, we had to kill some time as the border crossing is not open until Monday, hence we chose another valley in the border direction, but this proved an uninteresting drive in a mostly desert area.
Our camping spots have been breathtaking; tonight was just beside the track!
Sunday 2nd September: We were only 20 kilometres from the border so decided to go there just in case our information was wrong and it would be open. The border gates are definitely locked, and the small village of about 30 houses (actually huts) pretty much looked deserted. I chose to just back track 5 kilometres and pick a line up one of the treeless valleys where we would wait for the border to open tomorrow.
The afternoon drifted by until a singing herder on horseback dropped in to say hello. He was looking after his flock of 2,000 goats, and as the goats slowly walked by, he shared coffee with us. Eventually he left and we sat down to our afternoon drink. Within minutes the herder returns on his old motor bike with his son, two other relatives, a bottle of Vodka, and some dried uncooked goats meat. He is Kazakh, and from the ger further up the valley. Dauletchan, speaks Russian, has been a soldier for 3 years, studied vet science for four, been Mongolian boxing champion, and now happy he has his herd of goats. He pours the straight vodka into his shallow bowl, dips in his ring finger and flicked a drop to the sky, to the earth, and to the wind. With the vodka blessed the cup was passed around to all, each time being refilled.
Lyn and Gay are smart enough to say no after the first two, but Bill and I are building international bridges and continue. He wanted to buy my binoculars and I think is offering some goats in payment. I was still sober enough to resist. Bill was perhaps not so and in a profound gesture gave away his Outback Challenge beanie, AND his binoculars. We add another bottle from our store, and before I know it one of the brothers has also returned from the ger with more vodka. It was a good evening and Bill and I were staggering at the end. I am not quite sure how I still managed to cook dinner.
The next morning I am sure one of these vodka bottles was still sideways in my head.
Monday 3rd September: Dauletchan had invited us to visit his ger at 9am before we left for the border. Kazakh gers are far more colourful inside, and the walls were covered with very bright cloths. The timber roof supports were bright red against the white canvas, and these supports were interwoven with multi-colour belts of platted material. The inside was clean and very spacious. A pile of seven old style suitcases obviously were their clothes draws.
Dauletchan, had a wife, two sons and a daughter, I am not sure why, but last night I do recall he proudly showed us all that his nine year old son was circumcised!
His elder brother Ackmed also is married with two children. We all sit on the floor around the low table. On it, is a selection of sweets, the pastries we have seen cooked before in the animal fats, and some dried dairy product, which we have found to be not very pleasant tasting. The tea is very weak with yak milk. As we talk out come the vodka bottles, but we are smarter today and kindly refuse with the excuse that we have to drive across the border. Thankfully they accept this as a genuine excuse.
With the last of our Polaroid pictures taken of the family we depart Mongolia with great memories of a wide open country and friendly people.
Mongolia 4 - North Hovsgol Lake
&
Boorog Desert
Thursday 23rd August: Last night, the temperature continued to drop to a very cold and windy 5 degrees. It is still raining and low cloud obscured any views of the mountains surrounding the lake. Occasionally the sun would break through and show us the light dusting of snow on the hills not so far from where we are camped. No point staying here, so after studying the maps we think we can short cut our way north to Moron about 200Kms. It is over the mountains, so driving in the wet and cold conditions would be great.
The tracks were in places slippery and some deep (about 1 metre) water crossings; however the views as we drive up and down the vast Granite mountains are specular. Some of the Granite boulders are balancing, but most are so large, they are the whole mountain - just one vast domed rock. At one pass we are at 2,350metres and a light snow is evident on the side of the road. The heater is on maximum in the cab.
Driving lush green valleys, you look up to the mountains capped with snow, pine trees about half way down, and the valley floor filled with grazing horses. The scene strongly reminds us of the Neanderthaloid images created in the book 'Valley of the Horses', a part of the 'Clan of the Cave Bear' series. When on top of the mountains it is 'Sound of Music' country. Hard to believe it is Mongolia after the vast deserts and open plains of the south.
The weather is kinder to us now and we make an early 3.30 stop in the place of an old ger camp site. It is beside a small creek and there are the remains of the circular ger pattern on the grass and some scattered timber for our fire. Tonight is lamb roast night so we need a couple of hours cooking time. Whilst the camp oven is on, and we are tinkering with the trucks we have a couple of local visitors who come and sit and watch what these strange foreigners are doing. After about an hour or so, their curiosity satisfied they move to check on their stock.
The Lamb Roast is beautiful.
Friday 24th August: Six degrees this morning but with no wind it is not really cold. Reaching the town of Moron, it is different again to others we have seen before; perhaps more frontier. Timber buildings like we saw in northern Russia and many of the locals in traditional attire, some riding horses through town. A real mixture of old and new. We really enjoyed the lamb roast so off the markets. A two kilo leg of lamb 6,400T (A$6.40) and two and half kilo of beautiful rump steak 7,000T (A$7.00) plus some potatoes onions etc we are set to go.
The road north to Hovsgol Lake was typically a mix bag of good road, tracks, and trails. We decided on the western shore and coming over the pass ahead of us was the most beautiful area in Mongolia. It is what I had imagined Lake Baikal would be like, but this is very special. Pine trees coming down from the bare 3,000metre slopes to a grass and pine tree lined blue lake. Not just blue but rich blue like the most tropical waters of a coral reef, and crystal clear. It is the clearest lake water I have ever seen.
We parked the vehicles on a small escarpment above the waters edge. As the sun goes down, the moon come up, and the storm clouds on the eastern horizon give off a great sunset display. We will stay here a couple of days.
The steaks were cut thick, about 30mm, and although a little tough tasted really good.
Saturday/Sunday 25/26th August: Two very relaxing days. The first, I guess we had trouble winding down from being always on the move. As Lyn washed everything in site " clothes, bed sheets, and even the truck, I went over the vehicle from front to rear tightening every nut and bolt. Even managed to finally get the squeak from the windscreen wipers fixed and the Ipod working again. Both couples seem not to stop doing something, but we were happy that we had the chance to tidy up and catch up on repairs etc.
We had been visited during the day by the woman from the local ger camp, she had bought over some yak's milk to say thank you for the kangaroo gift we had given her son earlier. That evening we follow up her invitation to see her milk the yaks. We also tasted yak meat, which is not so different to cow, and sampled some yak yogurt, which I liked very much.
For dinner we cooked in the camp oven, the frozen chicken we had been carrying since Russia. I stuffed it with apple, bread, onion, and any spices I could lay my hands on. With baked potatoes, onions and carrots, it was a feast.
Sunday, was Gays birthday, and a do nothing day other than eat, drink and relax. The weather had unfortunately turned windy and hence was really cold at the shore line; hence we backed the vehicles up into the tree line some 100 metres back and in the lea of the pine trees enjoyed a much better climate. Really the day just drifted slowly by.
Finally in the afternoon we enjoyed a bottle of Chilean Red wine, purchased in Russia, and drunk in Mongolia " how very cosmopolitan. This we had with some fruit cake from home that Lyn had decorated with local flowers in honour of Gay's special day.
It was lamb roast, again! As the roast was cooking, we were joined by a young man who could not talk " but he certainly could smell that leg cooking. He had been collecting wild onions and offered some for the pot, then collected some more wood for the fire, and water for the camp. Naturally he had to stay for dinner. After a second helping he happily departed on his push bike with a smile and a wave.
Camp 58-60: Hovsgol Lake Camp
Highlights: "Valley of the Horses" and "The Hills are alive with the etc." country, Lamb Roast, Mongolia's most beautiful spot " Hovsgol lake,
Total Distance to Date: 13,521 Kilometres
Monday 27th August: After leaving Hovsgol Lake and resupplying at Moron we start our journey west. 25Kms out of Moron is the world's best Deer Stone site. These one to two metre vertical stones date back to Bronze Age man. Most still have the syllabized deer carving on them and carvings of knives belts, fish hooks, hammered into the granite stone. This area has a collection of nine deer stones plus other piles of rocks in circular or square patterns. We have often seen these concentric circles of rocks all over Mongolia. Apparently the round ones are burial places for animals, particularly the owner's favourite horse, and the square ones are human burial sites. These all date back to around 500B.C.
We were rather pleased with ourselves for also finding another deer stone some 100Kms further on in our travels. Apparently they are scattered all over western Mongolia and southern Russia.
Tonight we camped well off the track, high up on the edge of the timber line. Most of the valleys are devoid of any trees and it is increasingly hard to have a fire to cook on. Fortunately most of the slopes of the mountains are gentle and allow access up the tree lined ridge. These types of camp sites also allow us great views of the valley spread out before us.
Tuesday 28th August: We reached Tsetserleg around 1pm, it was here that a child died about 3 weeks ago and the road had been recently been closed for fear of a plague outbreak. The bubonic plague or Black Death of medieval Europe initiated from this part of Mongolia. It is transferred from handling marmot skins. A marmot is a local type of ground squirrel which they eat. We decided not to have our lunch in Tsetserleg!
Many times the tracks split and it becomes less obvious which one to take; many decisions are based on both the GPS arrow, the lay of the land, and which is the most used track. Not always does this work out. Many times the well used track becomes nothing more than one old wheel rut in the dust, some times not even that and we just follow that GPS arrow. This afternoon was no exception as we follow very old wheel ruts up and down hills. Finally passing a ger on the edge of the river, I hesitated and decided to ask directions. The middle aged gentleman was only happy too confirm we were on the correct track, but also invited us all in for chai (tea).
This was our first true invitation into a family ger. The six family members; husband, wife, two daughters and two sons live in the one room ger. It is kitchen, lounge, prayer room and bedroom for all. The floor was covered with lino and some scattered carpets. In the centre of the ger was the fire place with a big pot of molten sheep's fat bubbling away.
The lady of the house was cooking pastries in the fat. The elder daughter was rolling the flour mixture, whilst the others looked on. In the room were also 4 other friends or related family members what had dropped in to visit
On the walls on one side of the entrance hung two full carcases of the recent killed sheep and goat; they did neither smell nor where there any flies. As you scanned the walls, actually the lattice supporting the circular ger, it was also the place to store all their possessions; two, at least 1st World War, very used, bolt action rifles, coats, hats, cooking utensils, and drying skins. At the northern end (the entrance always faces south) was the small orange alter. Around the floor edge was bags of flour, more cooking pots, and their bed rolls. By the time the four of us entered the ger the fourteen of us made it very crowded but homely.
The husband immediately offers us chai. Hot, very milky, and slightly salty, we accept it gratefully with both hands, the Mongolian symbol for thank you. I spread our map of Mongolia on the floor and explain where we have travelled from and are going to. The only words of English they know is 'thank-you'. As the wife continues to cook the pastries, we are offered a bowl of delicacies " Sheep's liver, sheep's heart, and sheep's intestine stuffed with fat and meat of some kind.
The dark red and grey colour mixture is still warm from cooking. Being rude not to accept this generous offering, we all tentatively try a little. The husband thinks we are just a little too polite and cuts each of us a large chunk of intestine, which naturally we must accept and eat with a smile. Then wash it down with the milky salty tea.
The Polaroid camera was a big hit again here. The teenage daughter in typical style had to grab a comb from the lattice roof to comb her fringe. Following many inside photos and some outside around the vehicles we made a move to leave. Bill was very surprised, and I think quite worried when the husband jumped in and started his vehicle and proceeded to do a lap around the yard. But all ended well and the truck returned to its rightful owner. We parted company having had a real insight into Mongolian herding life.
That evening we camper below towering granite tors
Wednesday 29th August: Continuing west, we travelled varied terrain, rough mountain tracks, some through pine timbered country, and then open plains, then deserts. As we were 15 kilometres out of Baruunturuun a man stopped us and asked if we could take his two sons to town. The small boys of 6 and 9 approximately were standing next to him. We are surprised at the trust that still exists in this society, and wonder where it has gone in ours. We obliged and dropped the boys in town, much to their delight.
The open flat deserts around Dzuungovi are more that I imagined we would have found in the Gobi. This is the Boorog Desert, the world's most northern desert, flat for as far as you can see to the west, east, and to the north. Waves of sand dunes and to the south a rough treeless blue mountain range hugs the horizon.
Dzuungovi, is just as forbidding. Dusty rough streets, broken shanty wooden houses, and children who had forgotten to smile. We stopped to buy a drink in the magazine, but the only drink available was the row of room temperature beer or vodka on the top shelf. One shelf had some cans of food then three shelves of lollies. I imagine the only happiness for the locals was the vodka on top for the adults and the lollies on the lower shelves for the children. Not a happy town.
The track west across the flat desert was good travelling at 50-60 KPH, so we travelled till 7.30pm. Without a tree, or depression in site we drove about 2 kilometres off the road and set camp. Nothing could be seen for miles, and then three horse men appeared from nowhere to check us out. Following the acceptance of some biscuits from us and a cup of orange juice, they left happy that we were OK and their curiosity satisfied.
Tomorrow we will head to Ulaangom the capital of the province of UVS, about 75Kms
Camp 63: Sand Dune Desert Camp
Current Position: Boorong Desert " Western Mongolia
Highlights: Deer stones, Ger visit, Crossing Boorog Desert.
Total Distance to Date: 15,700 Kilometres
Mongolia 3 - Central Mongolia
Saturday 18th August: The sun is shining this morning, but fog is slowly drifting across the plain below us and up to Black Rock Ridge. The sweeping views of the horizon and Red Bluff disappear. With breakfast over we head out across the flat plains. Today, there are camels everywhere, sometimes in herds of 50 plus at a time.
As we head north the country is again changing, now hillier granite country with outcrops of pure white quartz. We come across a broken down vehicle, the three occupants had obviously been there all the previous night. They had not eaten, so we offered biscuits and drinks all round. The fan belt had broken on the vehicle, although they had tried makeshift repairs using their trouser belts it had not worked. Our option was to give the elder of the three, dressed in traditional costume a lift to Bayankhongor, our next stop about 40Kms away. Bill & Gay had the only spare seat, and I believe it was not a very interesting trip as neither party could communicate.
Bayankhongor was a town without a soul. Built during the soviet occupation, it is straight out of the soviet town planner's book. Half a dozen grey and brown four story apartment blocks were set either side of the single wide main street. The rest of the buildings, obviously added later, are a mixture of recycled timber and scrap sheet metal, or white rough rendered brick houses or gers. Each gers is surrounded by ramshackled timber fences, I imagine depicting ownership. Apart from the straight main street, the rest of the streets seem to happen in any order as the dwellings appeared.
Whilst I was at the internet, Lyn & Gay did the shopping in the markets with the help of a drunken local man and a mute woman. I believe it was quite an experience.
Our afternoons destination was Naiman Nuur (Eight Lakes) for which we had the GPS coordinates from 'Lonely Planet'. It was typical of my destinations, very off the main tourist route. A single lane track up the most beautiful river valley we have ever seen. The velvet grass left both sides of the meandering stony river and covered the ground all the way to the tops of the mountain peaks on each side of us. Dotted along the valley are the white gers and granite tors. We were now at 2000metres and still climbing. Left behind long ago were the camels, they are now replaced by goats, cattle, and as we get higher, Yaks. As the evening draws near, the families are herding the live stock close to the ger to bed down.
We set camp atop of a spur overlooking the river bend. After our camel steak dinner, we had a visit by four horse riders hoping for a drink to have with their 'roll your own' smokes.
P.S. The camel steaks were very nice!
Sunday 19th August: Surprise, after the rain again last night the sky is blue. This only makes the valley all the more beautiful. The ger families are now driving their flocks out across the grasses. With no fences, and no land ownership in Mongolia, there must be an understanding between the families on grazing rights. All in all, it looks like an ideal lifestyle - as least in the 25degree summer. Still there are no trees only short grasses. For cooking fuel we see piles of animal manure being dried in the sun. I am thinking that must add a special flavour to the cooking!
We turn off the main valley to follow the GPS arrow up another much smaller valley. The track is almost nonexistent. On reaching the top, we expect to be mesmerised by eight beautiful lakes, however the ridge just rolls over into the next valley. On either side of the saddle we search between and over the granite outcrops looking for the impossible. We finally convince ourselves that the coordinates in 'Lonely Planet' must be incorrect.
Disappointed we did not find the eight lakes; we were none the less, impressed with the surroundings.
Returning to the main valley we continued, past idyllic ger settings, down picturesque valleys that photographs did not do justice to the small settlements of Uyanga, and Zuunbayan-Ulaan. Finally we reached the 'main road' just south of Khujirt.
Ahead of us we could see a turbulent thunderhead, and on the ground evidence that the very recent rain must have been violent. The ground was covered with fresh silt and in places thick ice from the recent hail. The major river crossing before Khujirt was 500 metres wide, running with water but fortunately shallow. What made the experience was the sun was now out and the valley crested by a new rainbow.
As we left Khujirt, we had read of some ancient burial sites marked by vertical stones. We found the site however all the graves had holes dug in and around them and I can only conclude that they were robbed of some saleable contents.
The new road was under construction, and the recent rains had filled a hole containing a road roller. Now also stuck in the same hole was a bulldozer and trying to pull that out was a grader. This was all very unsuccessful and badly disorganised. Some of the workers approached us for a drink (alcoholic of course) and my reply was only after the successfully retrieving the equipment. That obviously was not going to happen for a long time so we moved on.
We turned off the road and drove 750 metres up to the top of one of the rolling grassy hills for camp. This afforded us a grand view across the vast flood plain and the flood waters slowly moving from right to left down the valley.
Monday 20th August: This morning we visited the ancient capital of the Mogul Empire (Karakorum) dating from 1220, under the leadership of Chinggis Khaan. Unfortunately very little is left. Firstly, after only 40 years of occupancy Kublai Khaan moved the capital to what is now Beijing. What remained was later destroyed by vengeful Manchurian solders after the collapse of the Mogul Empire in 1388. Later in the 16th century what ever was left was picked up and used to build the nearby First Mongolian Buddhist Monastery of Erdene Zuu.
We had a guide for our tour of that Monastery, which in itself was impressive, but I could only marvel at the hand chipped granite blocks, pavers, steps etc that came from the previous Chinggis Khaan city. We walked outside the Monastery grounds over to the only remaining corner stone of that ancient city that was the trading crossroads of Asia.
Squatting down for a quite moment, I do believe I heard the noises of busy market and can only imagine the activity with traders from as far a field as China, Iran, and Europe. In the gravel below I can see pieces of broken pottery and wonder what stories it could tell?
In the new town of Kharkhorin we refuelled (Diesel 1050Togrog/Litre A$1.05) and had the major task of finding a water supply for the campers. As with most towns, Kharkhorin does not have a reticulated water supply and water is drawn from wells around town. For a foreigner it is difficult to know where these wells are. In the past we have seen people with containers going to and fro, hence from this it is possible to track down the small white pump house. The pump house has only a door, a small 200cm 'window' through which you pay your money, and a pipe out of the wall. This time after many questions and many very varying directions eventually a shop owner jumped in with me and guided us to a pump house. Both vehicles took collectively 100Litres for 3,000T (A$3.00), although not expensive we were grateful, because we normally paid around 800T (A$0.80).
Our camp tonight was 60Kms North at Ogiy Nuur (Lake). A pleasant evening and dinner of beautiful lamb steaks, purchased in the markets earlier that day.
Tuesday 21st August: We awoke at 1.30am this morning with someone trying to get into the front of the truck and then the camper. It was very windy and a cold 11degrees. I shone the torch out the window to see a very drunken Mongolian in his local attire indicating that it was cold and he wanted to come in and go to sleep. We were not impressed with his banging on the wall, but I also think he did not understand the words "piss off"! After half an hour and falling over the camper steps a couple of times, he must have eventually wandered off. It is at times like this we are so grateful to be in such a self-contained vehicle and not just camping in a tent.
It was a lousy night, and the cold and windy morning made the coffee taste just that little bit better than usual. We shared that coffee with the local park wildlife officer who came to say hello, even though we could not effectively communicate.
With a later than usual start, we planned to travel the 94 straight line kilometres to Tsetserleg for lunch. That plan soon disintegrated as we tended to zigzag all day up the wide valley. There seemed to be no major track and nothing corresponded to any of the maps we had in either the GPS or paper maps. The straight line 94Kms became 177Kms and that took a slow 7 hours to cover.
Along the way we stopped to ask directions from one ger camp, and that turned into a memorable experience for all. With a point of the hand, Tsetserleg was that way, but then the middle-aged man offered us airag. Airag is an alcoholic drink made from fermented mare's milk, and every ger has their own still to make the home supply. With only 3% alcohol it is still most definitely must be an 'acquired' taste. Out of respect, Lyn and I both tried some and did manage ½ a cup each. It is a little like sour coconut milk.
Lyn then noticed one of the women milking the mare, and indicated she would like a photograph. That was no problem. We have been carrying a Polaroid camera also with us and took a photograph of 'grandmother' milking the horse " that was a great hit. Some 15 pictures later, we had the whole extended family around the trucks, all posing for photos. Dad in the driver's seat, Brother (?) and children on the bull bar, kids lined up, even old grandmother was back in the action. All of the family were delighted with their photos and the colouring pencils and books we also gave out.
Finally arriving at Tsetserleg, we visited the markets for resupply. We really enjoyed our lamb last night so set about to purchase some more. Finally we differentiated the horse, cow, and yak meat from the sheep meat, and purchased a kilo of lamb for 3020T (A$3.20) plus a 2 kilo leg for 6000T (A$6.00). At some of the markets you can tell the difference because the head of the animal is on the shelf below its butchered meat. This one was a bit more challenging, using animal noises to differentiate the meats.
This evening we have found some trees, and hence some wood for an open fire. What better than lamb steaks!
Wednesday 22nd August: Up at 7.30am to an overcast sky and that drizzly rain remained with us all day. Today the tracks were quicker, or perhaps we just made better judgement calls at the multiple choice track junctions.
Stopping at a road side 'café' we had noodles and meat (what type is any guess) for the grand sum of 1050T (A$1.50) per very full plate. Coffee, for which we actually decided to stop for, we could buy the '3 in one' prepacked mixture, but they did not have any hot water, so we gave the coffee a miss.
We passed Chuluut Gorge, an impressive river gorge cut through the mountain range. I found it most intriguing because as we climbed the range the water was flowing in the same direction of our travel. Hence the gorge on out right was increasing in depth as we moved up hill.
Our destination is the extinct volcanic area of the Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur (Lake) National Park. Driving out of the village of Tariat towards the extinct volcano we crossed recent (a million years or so) lava flow. Very evident is its flow through the saddle in between the hills, and its meandering flow down the valley. Driving over the volcanic ash slopes, to our left is the remains of the recent volcanic cone. Surrounding us are volcanic bombs, lava flows and ash beds. I have to admit I was impressed.
The 500 metre climb to the top of the cone and its circumnavigation was a highlight. The only unfortunate part of this whole experience is the weather. It continues to be overcast and raining.
We are now camped on the side of a lake formed by the lava flow damming the river. It continues to rain and the temperature is dropping. At 5.30pm it was 12degrees, 6.30pm-11degreesC, now at 8.30pm a cold 9degreesC and still dropping!
I can only add that it is good snuggling weather!
Camp 56: Rainy and Cold Volcanic Lake Camp
Current Position: Camped at Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake " Raining & 11degrees C
Highlights: Beautiful Valleys, Chinggis Khaan's Capital, Tasting Airag, Lava flows and great extinct Volcanos.
Total Distance to Date: 13,147Kilometres
Mongolia 2 - The Gobi Desert
Tuesday 14th August: We had some restocking to do, and as there is no 'supermarket' in Dalanzadgad, we food shopped in the markets. We had always tried to buy our fresh vegetables in markets, but the butcher shop was a whole new adventure. We were lucky because the meat delivery vehicle had just arrived. The old motorbike had a sidecar attached and upon this were the four freshly butchered carcases. It seemed that everybody gave a hand to carry them inside and place on the large scales in the centre of the hall. Then the individual stall holders sliced off what they had pre-ordered and paid the 'wholesaler'. On the side of the hall were all these individual butcher merchants with their cuts of meat proudly displayed on one long table. Our only problem was that we could not tell the difference between the sheep, the cow, the camel, or goat, or what ever else was available. We spied a nice piece of meat and asked if it was lamb. Naturally we could not speak Mongolese nor do they English, so Lyn did the Baa-Baa thing. The two old ladies laughed and placed two lumps of fat side by side on the table to indicate it was camel. We still decided it still looked good and purchased the one and a half Kilo for 6,000 Togrog (A$6.00).
Bill got is beer (6 x 1.5 litre plastic bottles) for 9,000 Togrog (A$9), I chased up the local delicacy "'tarag' or yogurt, a large jar for 2,000 Togrog (A$2), and the only thing we could not find was butter.
With the chores all done we headed out the 45Kms to Yolyn Am Gorge. It was supposed to be an ice filled gorge, but his year's summer proved too hot, and despite walking more than 4kms down the gorge we found no ice. Watching the surrounding near vertical cliffs however eventually rewarded us with a sighting of two Ibex.
After 6 weeks of travelling we had decided to shout ourselves a bit of luxury. The Three Camels Lodge Ger Camp came well recommended as setting the bar for accommodation in Mongolia. Situated on the vast grassy plains with a small rock outcrop as a background, the central old style timber building was surrounded by 20 or so white ger tents. We were met by the friendly staff and shown to our accommodation. Each ger had a large king size bed, wash basin, toilet, and coal heater for winter. The inside walls, roof beams and all the furniture were brightly painted in typical orange and pink colours.
The accommodation tariff included 3 meals so it was an easy decision to not leave until after lunch tomorrow, particularly so as the 4 course dinner was delicious.
Wednesday 15th August: After a long breakfast it became a relaxing morning, if only to prepare us for lunch. We watched a video about Roy Andrews, an American adventurer who in the early 1920's discovered the worlds largest Dinosaur fossil reserve including the first ever Dinosaur eggs. This was only 25Kms north and was to be our next stop. It would seem that Roy was quite a real-life adventurer, fighting rebels, bandits, and hunting fossils in the midst of a revolution. It is widely regarded that he is the basis of the Indiana Jones character.
The 'Flaming Red Cliffs' of Bayanzag are amazing and with only a few steps you start to see fossil bones everywhere. We saw some incredible specimens in the Museum in Ulaanbaatar, but to actually see teeth and bones in mother earth " I was captivated.
We parked the vehicles at the base of the cliffs to camp, and immediately walked around finding bones and teeth in the soft red sand cliff face. Even after dinner I could not resist scratching at the surface only to be rewarded with a large specimen of pelvis (?) bone. After exposing about 40 cm it was so fragile I had to very reluctantly leave it alone.
Thursday 16th August: Today we are off to the 'Singing dunes' of Khongoryn Els. The Gobi Desert is not as I expected " waves of dunes for thousands of kilometres. Only in this area are the dunes as one would imagine. Here for 100Kms long and 10Kms wide are they nothing less than spectacular. Reaching a height of 300metres above the stony plain, they beg to be climbed. The slope was 45 degrees of soft moving sand, and Bill & I achieved the top, with Lyn reaching 2/3rds of the way. It was very hard work, but we were rewarded with a great view along the sand ridge line.
Our planned decent was not as fast as we wanted as we had carried two car floor mats to the top to slide down on, but they were too slow. However, as we moved the noise of the moving sand in front of us was like the low roar of an aircraft engine.
The afternoon's adventure was to be a 125Kms navigation run across the centre of the Gobi Desert to pick up vehicle tracks further north.
Leaving the sand dunes behind, we headed out on to the open stony rolling plains. Starting out on faint tracks these slowly diminished until we were following only the GPS directional arrow. The last faint track finished at an ancient well, the sides of the well were lined with twisted local timber and the beautiful stock enclosure again made of twisted, dry desert timber.
We elected to follow a sandy creek bed for 20Kms until the creek became too narrow for the vehicles, it was then across very rough dry 'salt bush' country for 10Kms until we reached relative smooth stony firm ground again. The firm ground was welcome as the sky was now overcast and only a sprinkle on the low salt bush country would have meant a quagmire. The last 12Kms took us over 1 1/2 hours; hence on reaching the comfort of the stony foot hills we called camp.
For the first time in a week fire wood was relatively plentiful at our Gobi Desert Camp.
Friday 17th August: It rained and blew last night. The wind so strong at 2am we woke with the shaking of the truck. This morning the rain has ceased to a light drizzle but the desert tracks are now wet and travel will be 'interesting'. Fortunately we are out of the low country and crossing now low stony hills. Very picturesque, but the colours subdued in the bleak weather.
The sand and rocky country is good travelling but in between in the low clay areas the ground is either slippery with sloppy mud, or tacky with sticky mud.
Our destination today is a crystal lined cave that was inhabited over 700,000 years ago. The GPS leads us up yet another long and 500 metre wide stony creek bed between jagged peaks. Strangely these wide rivers are cut through mountain ranges and connect the broad plains on both sides. Hence, instead of climbing up and expecting to reach the river headwaters, the river opens up again into wide open rolling country.
Following some directions from a local ger camp we arrive at a small steep sided gorge. We leave the vehicles and walk the 300 metres up to the opening in side of the rocks. A large cave is actually a gas cavity formed when the rocks were molten, and is lined with Calcite and Quartz crystals. The ceiling has a good overhang and a light hole; the smoke stains indicate long use.
Unfortunately more recent visitors have not appreciated the importance of this site and have left their own messages on the stone walls with paint and scratchings.
It is still raining, and we decide to cancel our visit to another prehistoric area, and head towards Orog Nuur (lake). After 60Kms, some on tracks and some not, we approach the Salt Lake but the low country becomes increasingly impassable with the wet weather. We really do not wish to be bogged in the middle of Mongolia, in a salty flood plain without a tree in sight. We retreat to higher ground, and call the lake quits.
Heading towards the town of Bayankhonor, tomorrows destination, we sight on our left a black rock ridgeline and decide to drive up this for our camp. At the top we are rewarded with a spectacular view across the black stony plain and to the right a predominant red and white vertical escarpment.
Our 50th Camp: Black Rock Ridge Camp
Current Position: 100Kms South of Bayankhongor (Central Mongolia)
Highlights: Food shopping in Dalanzadgad, Luxury overnight stay at 3 Camels Ger Camp, Dinosaur treasures, GPS across the Gobi, Crystal Cave.
Total Distance to Date: 12,195 Kms
Mongolia 1 - South towards the Gobi Desert
Saturday 11th August: Off to the Ulaanbaatar markets. 60,000 people visit these markets each day and they are as diverse as they are dynamic. You can buy anything from a gur tent and all the appropriate furniture, to chain saws, butter wrapped sheep intestines (as a container), antiques, ropes, and solar panels. We found everything very cheap. A $700 solar panel in Australia was $200, 'cargo' type shirts were $15, and my prized purchase was a very old Mongolian Khan Warrior helmet for US100.
After visiting the local and largest Monastery we left Ulaanbaatar and headed south.
This is a land of no roads only directions.
We soon found this out as we headed out of town. 20kms from town we were on multiple dirt tracks, no signposts, and heading by GPS south towards Mandalgov. There were so many tracks in every direction that eventually Bill and I became separated and could not find each other for over an hour. Having lost his UHF ariel very early in the trip, communication was impossible between the valleys. We finally relocated each other by good luck, not planning, and were so relieved that we camped where we were. Besides it was 8pm and we were on the side of a broad 10km wide valley, with the horizon surrounding us.
Following settin